It will come to no surprise to many that Sub Rosa has a clothing optional policy.

This 'tradition' started with our wait staff. It was late July - the week of the annual International Pinot Noir Celebration and it was quite hot outside. We had to chill our Pinot Noir before serving because of the heat.

One wardrobe malfunction led to another that evening and soon the entire wait staff was topless. Being a huge wine tasting weekend, Sub Rosa was filled out-of-towners including some French guests. There is something about being on vacation that releases the inhibitions. It wasn't long until half the female guests had doffed their tops as well. You would have thought you were at some French Rivera private party, but no - just another magical weekend night at Sub Rosa in Dundee.

We've been known to cook topless with only the benefit of a kitchen apron separating us from the raw flame. Nude barbecue, while not the rule can happen on hot summer evening at Sub Rosa.

Smoking and grilling meat is another tradition as old as mankind. Starting in May, the meat smoker is going once a week or more. Smoked salmon or pork rule at Sub Rosa, though in the fall time we are partial to a side of local venison to smoke. Nearly all the wood used for the smoker and grilling comes from the property here. Cherry, hazelnut, plum, walnut, apple and pear wood all contribute to the 'terroir of smoke'.

Ah natural is also a tradition as old as mankind. When bathing suits were introduced around 1868, the lines were forever drawn when it came down to who was a nudist and who was 'proper'. Sub Rosa's feeling is that both men and women deserve to go topless. Get over it already. You're starting to accept screw caps as alternatives to cork in wine bottles. You might as well get used to both sexes running around topless.